The Catfish Hole Offers Down-Home Charm, Great Catfish To Little Rock/NLR Area

Before we get down to the nitty-gritty here, I need to clear off some other business. First, you won't find any photos here of the Catfish Hole experience the Jenny and I had. That's because we've been without power all weekend and both our phones were at Jenny's parents house charging up so neither one of us had our cameras. Second, I am not a big catfish fan.

The Jenny and I had set out to eat at the newish restaurant in North Little Rock, Newk's, but got a little sideways looking for the back way there from my in-laws' house. We drove past the turn for the Hole before dead-ending at a gate to Camp Robinson. I'll have to draw you a word picture of it. The Hole is in the middle of BFI Pulaski County, six blocks off a backroad in a residential area. I don't know the history of the structure, but I'd guess it once was a country home that got added on to over the years. Some stray cats were loitering about the parking lot, doubtless waiting for catfish scraps. It was a pretty slow Saturday night at the Hole, and we grabbed a seat near one of the interior walls. Imagine walls that are carpeted (beige and brown shag, thank you very much) and a scuffed hardwood floor. (How do you vacuum a wall anyway? Handheld dustbuster?)

Our waitress was cute, young woman with a big pregnant belly. She had pushed her apron to below her baby bump. Here's the exchange:

Me: Slow night?
Her (with a sweet, slow drawl): Yeah, there's the game (Razorbacks) and the air show (at Little Rock Air Force Base in Jacksonville). I guess everybody is doin' that.
Me: Well, I guess it's good to have a night like that now and then to get caught up on things.
Her: Yeah, get caught up on tal-kin'.

She went on to explain a half-order is three pieces of catfish and a full order is five pieces. They also have a combo which is two of any of the six or so items on dinner list — frog legs, chicken, catfish steak, catfish fillets et cetera. The Jenny and I each got the half-order dinner of fillets. It comes with fries and hush puppies but you can substitute a veggie side for the fries at no extra cost. Jenny got the pinto beans and I order okra. We shared.

Now, like I said before, I am not a big catfish fan. Bottom feeders generally repulse me. That does not mean I am not willing to give it a try now and then. If it is really done well, then I MIGHT like it OK.

Well, folks, I loved it.

My experience of catfish is not wide for obvious reasons, but the Hole gave me the best possible catfish of my life. That's to say nothing of the hush puppies, and I do have a wide experience of them. The hush puppies were out of this world. They fall apart in your mouth because they were fried just the right amount of time, with a thick, crumbly crust. It's tough getting them fried enough on the outside without drying out the hush puppy but they did it at the Hole. Oh, and they didn't try to spice it up with jalapeno bits like some other folks foolishly try to do. I always think they're trying to get something by me when they do that to make up for an inferior product. The fried okra was very good and the pinto beans were even better.

Between servings, the waitresses plop down at a big table back near the kitchen entrance and eat. (I'm pretty sure they are not called 'servers' here). Between bites, our waitress even hollered over, "Y'all need any more Dr. Pepper?"

The clientele was a mix of white and black folks. One older, white woman well into her eighties shambled in with a large black man in a white doo-rag. She introduced him to the waitress as her best  friend. The Catfish Hole is the sort of place you might find a beat-up, rusted-out Malibu parked next to a new Mercedes. Apparently, the black patrons are okay with the TWO autographed photos of Orval Faubus on the wall. Actress and North Little Rock native Mary Steenburgen must be okay with them, too. Her photos also are up behind the counter, one of which shows here dining at the Catfish Hole. My cashier told me she hasn't come in in a couple of years but usually shows up with Ted Danson when she does. Also there last night, a burly, redneck farmer in bib overalls and a tractor cap.

If you're looking for a true Southern dining experience without pretense, then journey on over to the Hole. As my brother says, "your tongue will slap your brain to death" with delight.

Rating: The Catfish Hole — A+.

From the business card:
"The Catfish Hole Restaurant, Family Owned & Operated Since 1976.
603 Spriggs Road, North Little Rock, AR 72118
Strictly Fresh Pond Raised
Open Tues.-Thurs. 4:30 till 9:00
Fri. & Sat. 4:30 till 9:30
...
For Group Reservations Call 758-3516"

Closed Sunday and Monday